Round One: The Rubber Seal Struggle

At first, I tried to refit the glass that came with the car. Took it to a local shop… and they broke it. That’s when I learned the first painful lesson: 911s have different glass and rubber seal combinations.

So I bought another windshield with an OEM rubber seal. Tried again. This time, I realized the frame itself was wrong. The lower section of the frame had been butchered, so the glass would never sit right.

Thanks to mockup frames from Benefit Autoklassika, I tried to realign it. I cut the lower part open, rewelded it, and made it as straight as I could. Time for round two.

Round Two: Success… almost

With Triin helping me, we fitted the new windshield. It looked good — until a fine crack appeared. No sound, just a spreading line that ran across the glass. Brand-new glass ruined.

Still, it was fitted enough that I could finally drive the Porsche. That victory lasted a few days, until the windshield literally started popping out — bottom middle, top middle. The frame was still not right.

The Breaking Point: Going 993

At this point, I had enough. Our goal of starting the road trip was getting closer, and I didn’t want to risk fighting glass for another few months. The solution? 993-style glued-in windshield.

Of course, that decision came with a huge to-do list:

• To glue in the windshield, I needed to change the headliner (because you can’t swap it later).
• To change the headliner, I had to remove all the windows.
• While at it, I bent the windshield frame edges so the new glass would sit better and have a solid surface to glue on.

For the record, yes — “glue-in” is the right term. Porsche moved to glued-in windshields with the 964/993 because they’re stronger, safer, and seal much better than the old rubber system.

A Viral Accident

Some of this story you might already know from TikTok/Instagram. We used an old cracked glass (with a nearly invisible crack) to stage a “whoops” moment where the windshield drops and breaks. It looked real enough to go viral — hundreds of thousands of views later, people still think it was our brand-new windshield

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To Be Continued…

Right now, the glued-in 993 windshield is finally fitted, the new headliner is in, and the Porsche feels one step closer to being road-trip ready. But like everything else on this car, the saga continues.

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The post From 911 to 993: The Windshield Saga appeared first on Slowmile & Co.

It feels surreal to write this: in just a few weeks, we’re setting off on a six-month road trip in our 1982 Porsche 911SC. Estonia to Portugal, across the Alps, down the Italian coast, through Spain — and then all the way back again. One family, one small yellow Porsche, one big plan.

This isn’t our first time living life on the road. In fact, it has already become something of a tradition for us. With our old yellow VW T3 camper, we’ve already spent two long journeys — more than a year in total — crisscrossing Europe. Those trips taught us to embrace slow travel, to find joy in detours, and that adventure usually begins the moment something goes wrong.

A new tradition: leaving home in an Estonian way

Before hitting the road, we’re marking the beginning of this journey the way we now know best: in Põlva, with friends, taking a proper suitsusaun (smoke sauna). It’s become a little ritual — washing off the Estonian dirt, steaming away the everyday, and setting off fresh and ready for the road ahead.

The road ahead

From there, the route takes shape. We’ll drive south to Klaipeda, Lithuania, and board the DFDS ferry to Kiel, Germany. The Porsche culture will already be waiting for us — Germany and Austria are home to so many enthusiasts, garages, and legends of the marque. We want to meet them, learn from them, and probably fix a few breakdowns along the way.

From Germany, the plan is to head into the Alps, winding our way through Austria and into Italy. The Italian coast is waiting, and from there, our path is open. Spain for sure. Maybe a ferry to one of the Mediterranean islands before Barcelona. And finally, west to Portugal — not the end, but the halfway point.

Because the trip doesn’t end in Portugal. That’s only the turning point before we drive all the way back.

Why this trip matters

People ask why we’d choose to squeeze ourselves — two adults, a toddler, and a sphynx cat — into a tiny air-cooled Porsche for half a year. The truth? Because this is what we love. Classic cars, family adventures, and chasing freedom one slow mile at a time.

The Porsche might fail us along the way. The heater will probably quit. The gearbox already isn’t perfect. But that’s part of it. Adventure begins when something goes wrong.

And more than anything, we want to show that it’s possible. That you don’t need perfect circumstances to chase big dreams. That even with a little kid and a cat, you can pack your life into an old car and go.

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What’s next

We’ll be sharing the whole trip on Instagram, TikTok, and here on the blog — from the garages we end up in, to the vineyards and mountain roads we stumble across, to the everyday chaos of family life lived in motion.

The countdown is on: first week of October, the road awaits.

Stay tuned.

The post Six Months on the Road: Our Next Big Adventure in the Porsche 911 appeared first on Slowmile & Co.

For as long as I can remember, the Porsche 911 was the car. That shape — arguably the most iconic silhouette ever drawn in automotive history — has always felt like the perfect balance of rawness and beauty. As someone who’s spent years restoring, modifying and living with old cars, the 911 wasn’t just a symbol of performance, it was the ultimate end goal.

Before we dive into why we’re planning to drive this car across Europe, here’s a bit of context.

Old Cars, Old Roads

My love for classics runs deep. I’ve owned a 1964 Mercury Comet, a 1976 Mercedes W114, an ’88 Volkswagen T3, and a handful of other beautiful old machines. There’s something about mechanical simplicity — and the imperfections — that makes them feel alive.

But I never expected my first Porsche to come from a stock and crypto trade.

From Stocks to Stuttgart

In 2020, I started investing in stocks and crypto. One day, after a decent run of gains, I told myself: “If this ever gets me enough profit to buy a Porsche, I’ll do it.”

Six months later, I bought my first Porsche: a Panamera 4S. It was a beast. Luxurious, fast — honestly, the best car I’d ever driven. But over time I realized… it wasn’t a real Porsche. Not in the emotional sense. I didn’t feel the rawness, the connection. I wanted the smell of oil, the sound of the engine over my shoulder, the unpredictable joy of something classic.

That’s how I found our lemon — our racing yellow 1982 Porsche 911SC.

I saw it late at night online. The body was a bit twisted, the windows didn’t seal right, and I didn’t even go see it before buying. But in my head: if it’s worth seeing, it’s worth buying.

Financially? Probably not the smartest move. Spiritually? 100% the right one.

From Faro to “Porschega Portugali”

Here’s where it gets interesting.

Back in 2021, we were living out of our VW T3 camper in Faro, Portugal — me, my partner Triin, our baby Robin, and our bald co-pilot Kass (our sphynx cat). One night I made a joke: “One day, we should do ‘Porschega Portugali’ — a trip from Estonia to Portugal in a Porsche.”

It sounded impossible at the time.

Now it’s happening.

Why We’re Doing This Trip

Because we’ve done it before — just slower. We’ve spent two 6-month road trips across Europe in our VW camper. We learned how to live small, think big, and slow down. We saw the beauty of remote vineyards, roadside breakdowns, and gas-station dinners.

This time it’s different.

It’s tighter. Louder. Hotter. A little bit crazier.

But we’re still chasing the same things: sun, stories, and a different kind of freedom.

What Is Slowmile?

Slowmile is our brand and mindset. A reminder that not all miles need to be fast — some of them should be felt.

It’s about:

• Slowing down to appreciate culture, food, craftsmanship, and people.

• Carrying legacy through design, driving, and storytelling.

• Building a brand that reflects values over vanity.

On the road, we’ll be creating content, working with sponsor brands, sharing honest stories on Instagram and our blog, and developing our own Slowmile lifestyle merch.

This isn’t just a road trip. It’s the next chapter of a lifestyle we’ve been building — one slow mile at a time.

The post From a Dream to the Driver’s Seat: How I Ended Up With a Porsche 911 — and Why We’re Taking It to Portugal appeared first on Slowmile & Co.

The Diagnosis

The problem was clearly inside the mechanism. So I rolled up my sleeves and filmed a short reel for those curious. First step: removing the interior bits. The knobs came off, followed by the door panel — which, by the way, has seen far better days.

Once the panel was off, it was time to take out the window frame. If you’ve ever worked on a G-body 911, you know the drill: side bolts off, gentle wiggle, and a careful slide up and out. A bit stubborn, but nothing dramatic.

Getting to the Heart of the Issue

Now with access to the locking mechanism, I removed the latch assembly. The culprit? A heavily worn component deep in the system. The central pivot area had so much play it was no wonder nothing lined up — the entire movement felt vague and unreliable.

Ideally, I’d drill it out, replace the internal bushing or bearing, and make it solid again — but this fix needed to happen quickly. So I went for a temporary solution: slight reshaping.

http://slowmile.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/A1169848-F4CD-4973-AE02-D5A84A3196CF.mov

The Quick Fix

I carefully bent a few key parts, especially the sliding latch piece that prevents the door from opening when locked. Then I used a small grinder and dremel to smooth down the lever edge that was stopping the key from turning cleanly.

Everything now slides and locks properly. It’s not perfect, but it’s safe, functional, and doesn’t risk damaging the overall system. Once I have time, I’ll rebuild the mechanism properly — likely fabricating a new bushing or pivot to restore it fully.

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Final Thoughts

This is exactly the kind of job that makes me love (and sometimes curse) classic car life. You’re not just maintaining — you’re keeping history alive, one clever fix at a time. The best part? That satisfying click when the lock works again.

—

Follow our journey with the yellow 911 on Instagram and TikTok @slowmile.co — more reels, builds, and roadside fixes coming soon.

The post Porsche 911 Build – Door Doesn’t Lock appeared first on Slowmile & Co.

So if you own a Volkswagen T3 with a JX, AAZ or similar diesel engine and need to replace the head gasket, this step-by-step guide will help you through the process. A failing head gasket can cause issues like overheating, coolant loss, or oil contamination. Along with changing the head gasket, we’ll cover additional steps, such as removing the diesel injection lines and replacing the timing belt and tensioner. Follow these instructions to restore your Volkswagen T3’s performance and reliability.

Disclaimer:
Before proceeding, ensure you have the necessary tools, skills, and a suitable workspace. If you feel uncomfortable or unsure about any step, it’s recommended to seek professional assistance.

Step 1: Gather the required tools and materials
Before starting, gather the following tools and materials:

1. Socket set and ratchet
2. Torque wrench
3. Gasket scraper
4. New head gasket
5. New cylinder head bolts
6. Timing belt and tensioner (if needed)
7. Engine coolant
8. Engine oil and filter
9. Replacement parts (if necessary)

Step 2: Prepare your workspace
Ensure you have enough space to work and organize your tools. Keep a clean work area to prevent dirt or debris from entering the engine during the repair process. Additionally, disconnect the battery to avoid any electrical mishaps.

Step 3: Remove the diesel injection lines
To access the cylinder head, begin by removing the diesel injection lines that connect the injectors to the fuel pump. Carefully disconnect each line at both ends and secure them away from the work area. Also cover the injectors so that no dust or particles get inside the injectors.

Step 4: Find Top Dead Center (TDC)
You may have to remove the exhaust pipe to provide better access to the crankshaft bolt. Use a suitable wrench to rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the reference mark on the engine block. There is also timing mark seen through the gearbox bell housing hole. This ensures the pistons are at the top of their stroke. Makes the assembly easier.

Step 5: Remove the necessary components
Remove the air filter housing and the intake pipe leading to the turbocharger. Loosen and remove the four bolts holding the turbocharger in place. Carefully disconnect any wires, hoses, or connectors that may obstruct the removal process. I removed also the water coolant flange behind the cylinder head so that the head doesn’t get stuck behind the turbo oil pipe.

Step 6: Remove the cylinder head with exhaust, and intake manifolds
Before you cant get the cylinder head from the engine block you have to remove the timing belt also, if you are not sure how to time your engine later then don’t do it. Anyway then remove the cylinder head along with the exhaust manifold and intake manifold as a unit. This makes the process easier and avoids complications. Cylinder head is held place with 10 bolts, don’t reuse the old bolts! Open up the intake pipe and release the four bolts securing the turbocharger to the manifold. Stuff some fabric or towel inside the turbo air pipes so that you dont get any dirt inside the turbo.

Step 7: Replace the timing belt and tensioner (optional)
If necessary, this is an ideal time to replace the timing belt and tensioner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper removal and installation of the timing components. Ensure the timing marks are aligned correctly before proceeding. I will post more about timing in future (maybe I already posted it so look around in our blog).

Step 8: Clean the surfaces
Using a gasket scraper or suitable tool, thoroughly clean the cylinder head, engine block, and manifold surfaces. Remove any debris, old gasket material, and oil residue to create clean and smooth mating surfaces. Also if the cylinder head is already removed then see if the surface is even and not warped. If you find out that your cylinder head is warped then you may have to get it machined or new buy a new head.

Also there are gaskets with different thickness market with the notches in the head gasket. Not going to deep into it, if you just want to change the head gasket then use the same. If you get your cylinder head machined then consult with the proper mechanic before buying new gasket.

1 notch – 1.53mm thick to suit piston protrusion of .66mm to .86mm
2 notch – 1.57mm thick to suit piston protrusion of .87mm to .92mm
3 notch – 1.61mm thick to suit piston protrusion of .93mm to 1.02mm

Step 9: Install the new head gasket
Place the new head gasket onto the cleaned engine block, ensuring proper alignment with the cylinder head’s bolt holes. Take care not to damage the gasket during installation.

Step 10: Reinstall the cylinder head and manifolds
Lower the cylinder head along with the exhaust and intake manifolds onto the new gasket. Ensure proper alignment with the bolt holes. Always use new bolts when reinstalling your cylinder head. Usually there is a bolt torque info and pattern with the new head gasket you ordered.

Torque instructions for 1.9TD AAZ
1. 40nm
2. 60nm
3. 90°
4. 90°

Step 11: Reassemble the components and prime the injectors
Reinstall everything.
Refill the engine with fresh coolant and engine oil. Double-check all connections and components for secure fitting.

To ensure proper fuel priming, gently loosen the fuel lines on the injector side before tightening them. Gradually turn the engine over using the starter until you observe fuel flowing from the loosened line, and then securely tighten it.

Once everything is properly assembled, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes while monitoring for any signs of leaks.

The post Step-by-Step Guide: Changing the Head Gasket on a Volkswagen T3 with JX or AAZ Diesel Engine appeared first on Slowmile & Co.

Information below is not all written by me.

You can also see more about our engine swap – Click here

1. Strip AAZ to bare engine, head and block, good time to replace cambelt and tensioner and check crank pulley and crank for wear. We did a full rebuild for cylinder head and the engine block.
2. Fit JX sump and oil pick up pipe without windage tray. Don´t use the windage tray. It increases the width of the gasket as it were, then when you try to get the bottom bolts from bellhousing to sump they won-t line up.
3. Use AAZ injection pump, modify throttle linkage.
4. Use any T3 diesel throttle cable.
5. Use JX exhaust manifold and JX exhaust.
6. Use AAZ turbo, change attitude to suit JX exhaust manifold.
7. Manufacture oil feed pipe for turbo.
8. Use T3 diesel clutch.
9. Fit new spigot shaft bearing to crank.
10. Fit block bung to back of cylinder block.
11. Fit oil return line from turbo to sump.
12. Use JX airbox and piping to turbo, relocate airbox to behind left hand light.
13. Use JX water housings for cylinder head.
14. Use AAZ waterpump to head rubber hose as the JX one isn-t long enough, block the spare end.
15. Use AAZ inlet manifold, JX and AAZ ports are different shapes.
16. Use which ever alternator/belt set up suits you, they are interchangeable.
17. Use JX dipstick
18. Small hole in engine lid, you need about 15mm increase in height on top of the injection pump. The position of the hole you need to make varies from model to model, early, late etc. Use these measures as guidelines to get you in the right area. But check everything before you cut the hole!! 

Useful information:

User manual and torque specs for 1.9L Turbo Diesel 1997-1998 Engine ALH, AAZ, AHH, AHU, 1Z  – Click here

Notes: Using the original AAZ exhaust manifold and turbo in it-s AAZ orientation results in oil not being able to drain from the turbo, engine will run on it-s own oil and self destruct.

Once done, fit new oil filter, fill engine up with 4.5l of oil and run, once run then remark dipstick to new level.

The post 1.6TD (JX) to 1.9TD (AAZ) To-do-list appeared first on Slowmile & Co.